"Clank, clank, scrape, clack, clink, scrape, scrape, clank!" It's like the sound of fingernails dragging across a chalkboard. I'm making my descent down a long wide path of pebbles and dust. Behind me at least sixty feet away a young man follows me sporting those industrial strength trekking poles and every step he makes I can hear as if he is walking right next to me. The serenity I'm trying to soak in is unfortunately being absorbed by those trekking poles needling their way through the broken rock. I stop for a rest and watch this man approach me. Looking at him it almost seems more cumbersome to walk with them versus without. For one thing he isn't a very tall person and the poles seem to be longer than he is. He stretches his arms far forward stabbing his sticks into the earth before moving his feet forward. Maybe that's how it's supposed to be, but regardless I'm annoyed and want him to get far ahead of me so I don't have to listen to that noise. He doesn't even have a big backpack like the forty pounds that I'm carrying. Somewhere on this mountain he has a nice porter lugging his pack for him and I bet his porter wanted to be as far away from him as possible too.
Moving on, my toes are bumping the front of my boots all the way down and I imagine when I take them off later I'll have a few black toenails. I no longer need all the clothing I put on to keep warm. I'm sporting 3 layers of pants, and about 4 tops with a hat and gloves on. I'm roasting so bad, but there isn't anywhere to hide so that I can remove clothing. I have to use the toilet also and I'd rather not show the world what I'm up to. It's times like these when I wish I were a guy, but maybe my problem is that I'm giving a shit about what someone might think. I'm only human right? Lucky for me I spot a small settlement that looks abandoned,,, perfect. I cannot believe I went from wearing layer upon layer of clothing to a t-shirt and pants in just under an hour.
When I catch up with Tony and AB they are resting on the first patch of grass we've seen since Manang Valley. I throw down my pack and stretch out on the grass along with them. We've been going non-stop for seven hours now without food or rest. I don't realize how worn out I am until I'm laying down. My eyelids are heavy and the warm sun and breeze make for a great lullaby. "Clink, clack, clack, scrape." "That sound!" There he is again, he must have taken a break and I passed him up. "That fucking dude." AB grumbles keeping his eyes closed.
"I'm glad I'm not the only one who feels that way." I chuckle as I cock my head back up the mountain to see where he is coming from. Mr. Pole decides to take a rest in almost the same spot we are. The peace and quiet is over when he digs in his day pack and crinkles open a chip bag. We lay there for a few moments listening to the bag crinkling and the chips crunching, but trying are best to hear beyond that and remember why we are here. It doesn't work, poor dude, everything about him is irritating but, I'm sure he means well. Muktinath
We reach goat herds and fields of buckwheat before making our way into the village of Muktinath. I look back at the mountain pass, which now sits far off in the distance. Funny, it doesn't look so difficult from here. The valley isn't cut as steeply as it was from the Manang side. It's not as green and lush, but brown with a dusty wind blowing in from time to time. This is the gateway to Mustang, a remote kingdom that straddles the border of Nepal with Tibet. I would love to visit Mustang but you need special permits to go there and we just don't have the time.
Muktinath looks beautiful, with it's Hindu and Buddhist temples and oddly enough trees. This is an odd place for trees to grow because of it's elevation 12,460 feet and so it has become a sacred site for both Hindu's and Buddhists. Hindu's come here to worship Vishnu and among Hindu's, Muktinath is known as the "place of salvation." There are 108 fountains with cow head sculptures protruding from them and each shots water from it's mouth. People walk in the fountain letting the cow heads soak them in sacred water, even if it's freezing cold out. I don't have the energy to explore this place and I feel as if I'm dragging my feet through it's pathways. It's going on eight hours since we've had a decent meal. I stink,I'm covered in dust and I've burned my face and arms in the sun. Despite all that I'm in good spirits, but in a way I'm starting to feel sad. My journey is almost over.
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